Curdi, India: The Goan Village That Resurfaces Every May
Curdi (also spelled Kurdi) was a fertile, religiously mixed village in Sanguem taluka of South Goa, nestled in the foothills near the Western Ghats and watered by the Salaulim River. By the standards of the region it was prosperous and crowded — home to roughly 3,000 people across some 600 families who farmed paddy and cashew, tapped coconut and lived alongside one another as Hindus, Catholics and Muslims around a shared temple, chapel and shrine. In the mid-1980s it became the first community submerged by the reservoir of the Salaulim Dam, a project built to supply irrigation and drinking water to much of Goa.
The village disappeared beneath the rising reservoir as its roughly 600 families were resettled in the nearby villages of Valkinim and Vaddem, scattering a tight-knit, multi-faith community across the district. Its principal Hindu shrine, the Someshwar Temple, was dismantled stone by stone and rebuilt on higher ground near the dam to spare it from the water. What might have been an ordinary story of dam-displacement then took an unusual turn dictated by the reservoir’s own rhythm — each year before the monsoon, when the dam draws down to its lowest level, the water recedes far enough to lay bare the bones of Curdi once more.
Every April and May the cracked, ochre lakebed gives the village back — house foundations and thresholds, old wells, and surviving structures including a hillside chapel and the remains of other temples emerge into the sun. Former residents and their descendants make an annual pilgrimage home, returning across the dry reservoir floor to clean ancestral sites, picnic among the ruins, hold the chapel feast and celebrate the festival of the relocated Someshwar Temple, turning a loss into a recurring act of remembrance and reunion.
Curdi has thus become one of the most poignant of the world’s drowned villages — not a place mourned only in the past tense, but one that reassembles itself every year for a community that refuses to let it vanish. The annual homecoming has drawn growing attention as a moving example of how displaced people keep a destroyed place alive through ritual, even after the dam and reservoir have done their work.